Ciao all,
Today after a late start and aching feet I went into town, as in centro storico. You see the place we are staying is a lovely little apartment on the Gianicolo, which is above Tastevere, as explained in the name, is over the Tiber from the fancy Rome we all know and love (?). Trastevere is very popular now, it is also very old and has a lot of the old medieval look to it. St Cecelia is there, where she was martyred, and supposedly her house is. They tried to scald her to death for 3 days (?) and it didn't work so they beheaded her. A famous and moving sculpture was made of her by a famous Italian sculptor Maderno in the 1500s.
Anyhoo I took the bus to the Piazza Venezia which is where the Pamphilij gallery is. Today is Monday so most all of the museums in Rome are closed but not this. I just got a Roma pass (museums discounted or free) yesterday, which is good for three days only. Guess what. Galleria Pamphilij is private = not free. €9 to be exact. Jeemany. Well I did it anyway, and wow, what a pad.
First I had a lovely Cappucino (only 90 cents) right off the Via Gesu, near the Pantheon, and found an art supply shop with a shockingly rude staff. Screw em. I don't even try to the nice americana any more. I tell them to get on with it and quit wasting my time. Yeah, really.
Anyway, the Doria Pamphilij family is still around and the own the residence/palace. In fact our apartment is right next to the Villa Doria Pamphilij park. Their ancestor is Pope Innocent X who is the subject of the famous (infamous) portrait by Velazquez. Francis Bacon did a series of scary interpretations of this image. The painting is amazingly real in the sense that he looks like he is waiting for you to say something. Couldn't get a picture...vietato!
So that was cool. Some Caravaggio, Claude Lorraine, Fillipo Lippi, Caracci, and some splendiforous rooms! This is wealth.